Thor build up for Goblin invasion


















Thunder God and severed arm

Thor as he apears in my dio, with his severed arm lying in a pool of blood behind him.

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Cat in needlepoint; Actual size=180 pixels wide

This is the box art for the Toy Biz Thor kit I used.

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As you can see, from this front shot, I used the box art as a guide for his uniform colors, to some extint. I didn't go with the gold colored boots and lacings. I depicted them as leather colored. My artistic license if you will.

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The basic build up of the Toy Biz Thor goes together quit nicely with no problems. The seams were easy to deal with as all the parts fit together very well. A little Squadrons putty, minimal sanding and The Thunder God was ready for paint.

Painting the Mighty Thor, step by step

Primer & base cote:

When ever possible I like to use the primer as my base cote also. So with this in mind, I used Krylons' grey primer. Grey is what I always use when there is going to be a lot of detailed flesh tones.

After the primer was dry I examined Thor closely for any seams that might be showing. I found that the area where his golden mane comes to rest on his shoulders and chest needed some more putty work and the area where his shoulders connected with the torso showed to many sanding marks. So I reapplied some squadrons to the hair line and put him away to dry and cure.

When I got back to the Thunder God (several days later), I sanded the new layer of putty smooth (I like to use wet dry sanding sticks) and then addressed the sanding marks on the shoulders. Now it was time for another cote of primer. This time when I examined him all was as it should be. Now for some color!

Flesh Tones

I desided to paint the flesh areas first, knowing I would be using multible layers of washes and not wanting them to run onto the body areas, after they had been painted.
I planned on Thor having a well weathered look to his flesh . After all he runs around in a tank top all the time.

I started with a pale flesh color called Elf Flesh made by Citadell paints. I know most people like to start with darker tones and and gradually use lighter and lighter tones, bringing out the high lites, but not me. I use the lighter color first then start right in with dark washes.

I painted the Elf flesh, what I call semi heavy, making sure all flesh areas are well covered. As the paint gets tacky, I brush over the detailed areas, with a dry, clean, brush leaving an indent in the drying paint; marking the detail lines.

After this enisail cote, I don't dull cote before moving on like most do. I want the first cote of wash (which comes next) to get down into the slight grooves I have made with my brush on the tackey paint. This makes the detail lines appear deep and embedded with dark color.






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Notice how the muscles on Thors' inner forearm seems to just pop out at you? Even in these out of focus pics.

Bellow is my secret painting technique, reveiled for all to see.








































Snot Slingers glue

.....The bloody stump and how I did it..... Click here

Snot Slingers' Flesh painting technique

On the first flesh wash, I always use 'Dark Flesh Wash' by 'Citadell Paints', It acts more like a stain than a wash; anything it slightly touches darkens right up. It also dries to a matte/semigloss finish which catches the light and your eyes.

I don't really wash the figure as the name implies. I dab a very thin tipped detail brush into the wash and then trace out the detail lines not letting the wash travel on its own. I then let this "trace wash", as I call it, dry completely.

The next wash is a traditional full wash, (Fairly heavy) letting the wash flow where it will, then wiping any drips with a paper towel. When this was dry but not real dry, I lightly dry brushed the area with Dwarf Flesh from Citadell paints, letting the paint cover the wash detail. Dwarf Flesh is a dark flesh tone you can mix your self. It gives the apperance of a nice dark suntan.

Next comes the first cote of Krylon spray matte finish. This not only protects the paint but also makes the detailed wash lines show through the paint looking nicely blended in and natural. I let this sit for a few days and cure really well before going on.

Next, another trace wash followed (when dry) by a dry brushing of the original light colored Elf Flesh, but this one is only applied to the areas I want to high lite (round part of bicept, top of delts, cheeks, nose and brow).

Now it's time for another cote of Krylon. I made this one fairly heavy and let cure over night.

Now comes another dry brush session with the darker Dwarf Flesh applied to the shadowy area fairly heavy and litely every where else. I let this dry for only about fouty five minutes the come several heavy full washes and then an overnight dry.

Now comes the finishing touch. I already have good deep and almost too dark detail lines throughout the muscles. The the lightened high lighted areas realy shine now also. But it all looks to perfect and un-natural. So here I take my Dwarf Flesh and really load up a wide square tipped brush then repeatedly wipe the brush in all direction on a piece of typing paper until I see no more paint coming off. I push the tip straight into the paper and fan out the bristles. Then with a circular motion I apply this fanned out brush to the flesh areas of Thor in the same spinning a mashing manner. At first you can see nothing happening but gradually paint starts to build as you continue. This blends in all the detail the highlites and normal tones together when achieve the look you want, don't stop go just a little futher. Let this dry and cure completely then spray a lite cote of krylon and your done.

Click on the link below for more of my build ups

Snot Slingers Model gallery index